A Desert within a Forest
My desert home in the state of Arizona, located in the southwest United States, is haloed ground for some of the most iconic landscape photography in the entire country. Visitors from around the globe make the trek here to capture stunning images of Monument Valley, Horseshoe Bend, the Grand Canyon and Antelope Canyon just to name a few. I love the landscapes of Arizona, but photographing living creatures has always been my calling. So, what does one do as a passionate wildlife photographer immersed in a land known for its landscapes? If this describes you as well, let me “let you in” on an almost three million-acre secret – the Tonto National Forest (TNF).
The Tonto National forest is a haven for both landscape and wildlife photographers who seek jaw-dropping, but lesser-photographed tapestries of the American Southwest. Though it may not be as well-recognized as the iconic Grand Canyon, it is still one of the most visited national forests in the United States (US), welcoming approximately six million visitors per year. It is also the fifth-largest national forest in the United States, nearing the size of the state of Connecticut. The forest is designated as public land and is one of numerous parks and preserves held in trust for the American people by the federal government. In the US, most public lands are open to the public for recreation and also serve to conserve and preserve our natural resources. In 1905, the Tonto National Forest was created to preserve two primary watersheds in the region—the Salt and Verde. Several major reservoirs were subsequently created to ensure a sufficient water supply to the towns and cities these watersheds serve within the greater Phoenix area and portions of five counties in Arizona.
The waterways alone total over 1,400 miles (2,253 kilometers) and include over 30,000 acres (12,140 hectares) of riparian
vegetation. Together, they serve as a vital water source not just for humans – but for millions of birds, animals, and even a stunning array of wildflowers. They also line a major migratory pathway for birds each spring and fall, drawing in bird watchers and photographers worldwide who are eager to see them. In total, over 400 vertebrates (including over 90 species of mammals) and approximately 350 species of birds have been observed within the Tonto National Forest. It is also host to 21 endangered species. Though one may have to often work a little harder to find wildlife in this region than others in the United States, given it frequently suffers from drought, wildlife and botanical viewing is still exciting and dependable. For nature photographers, falling in love with this unique and picturesque forest is easy given it contains seven different climate zones with spectacular habitats and landscapes. The TNF begins with the urban/private zone and elevates to desert scrub at about 1300 feet (396 meters) above sea level. Phoenix, Arizona – the largest city in Arizona and the fifth-largest in the United States, sits within the Sonoran Desert and the boundaries of the TNF begin just outside of the Phoenix metro area.
It surprises many that a forest actually contains a spectacular desert. The TNF is unique in that it encompasses a large swath of Arizona’s Sonoran Desert. This special desert is a gem of the southwest as it boasts the greatest diversity of plants among any desert in the world due to its bi-seasonal rainfall patterns (which also include the dramatic monsoon season in late summer, which can provide award-winning photographic opportunities). Most people cannot think about a desert without visualizing our iconic sentinels within it — Saguaro cacti (pronounced “Sa-war-oh”). These armed giants are federally protected. They can reach to 40+ feet (12+ meters) tall and can exceed 4000 pounds (1800 kilograms). The Sonoran desert is the only place in the world in which they live. They, along with numerous other cacti and plant species provide food, shelter, pollen, nesting material and more to the many species of wildlife and insects found here.
When spending time in the Sonoran desert, I love to seek out the elusive desert Bighorn Sheep (a smaller cousin to the Rocky Mountain Bighorn), Desert Cottontail, Silver Fox, Black-tailed Jackrabbit, Harris’ Antelope Ground Squirrel, Round-tailed Ground Squirrel, wild horses, Black-tailed and Diamondback Rattlesnakes, various lizards, several species of bats and more. Iconic birds commonly found in this desert include Arizona’s state bird, the Cactus Wren (North America’s largest wren), Gila Woodpecker, Anna’s Hummingbird, Burrowing Owls, Gambel’s Quail, Verdin, Canyon Wren, Abert’s Towhee, Canyon Towhee, Great horned Owl, Harris’ Hawk, Red tailed Hawk, Vermillion
Flycatcher, Roadrunner, Northern Mockingbird, Say’s Phoebe, Phainopepla, and White-winged Dove.
For those new to exploring the Sonoran Desert, it is paramount that you pay close attention to the ground. It’s not uncommon during spring, summer and fall to have reptiles (including venomous snakes) sun themselves on the rocks, or cool themselves in the shade. Scorpions, Africanized (i.e., “killer”) bees, and other stinging insects make this desert landscape their home, as do tarantulas. Wearing protective gear and being observant will be important during your exploration.
It is fascinating to see how the plant and wildlife of the Sonoran Desert have adapted to this harsh climate. Photographers exploring the Sonoran Desert should be mindful of the weather. Wintertime temperatures range from lows of about 20°F (-6°c) to highs in the 70°F+ (21°c) range. Summer temperatures can climb to 120°F (48°c) and higher. Humidity levels can go as low as 3% in summer and generally do not get higher than 50%, even during summer monsoon season. With temperature ranges of over 100°F degrees from summer to winter and about 300 days of sunshine per year, dressing appropriately, wearing sun-protectant gear, and carrying ample water in all seasons is imperative. Photographers should also be mindful of the occasional dust storms that pop up in the region, typically in summer, making visibility when driving very difficult. The arid climate means it can get dusty. Cameras and lenses should be
changed carefully when in the field to avoid prolonged exposure to dust. Lens cleaning equipment when in the field is essential.
The challenging, but biologically rich and textured Sonoran Desert region quickly rises up east and north of Phoenix, giving way to climate zones that include grassland, chaparral, woodland, and ultimately to rugged, mountainous and coniferous terrain at over 7,900 feet (2,400 meters) in elevation. These towering elevations boast millions of 200-foot (60-meter) tall ponderosa pines that cover the land and terminate at the vertigo-inducing edge of the Mogollon (pronounced “moo-gee-on”) Rim. Standing at the edge of this escarpment provides brave photographers sweeping vistas and views of a 2,000-foot (600-meter) sheer drop to the canyon below.
I recommend driving the 43-mile long (63 km) route along Forest Road 300, an unpaved but well-maintained road that traces the rim’s edge and will give photographers abundant and dramatic compositions of this incredible land.
In addition to the beautiful scenery of “rim country,” look carefully for mammals that include American Elk, Mule Deer,
Javelina, Coyote, Black Bear, Bobcat, the rare Mexican Gray Wolf, a variety of bats, and more that make this region their home. Bird species you might observe along the way include Western Tanager, Mountain Bluebird, Rufous Hummingbird, Painted Redstart, Stellar’s Jay, Pinyon Jay, Raven, Juniper TItmouse, Spotted Towhee, and Acorn woodpecker.
The seventh climate zone – water and riparian–can be found interspersed throughout these elevations. Wildlife depend on these systems for water, hunting, feeding and bathing. It is not unusual to see great blue herons, snowy and great egrets, various species of sandpipers, black-necked stilts, ducks, eagles, grebes, and more traverse these lakes, rivers and streams. During the summer monsoon seasons and winter rainy season, it is not uncommon for completely dry washes and ravines to be subjected to dangerous flash flooding. During these storms, “temporary” yet dramatic waterfalls pop up almost instantly and offer fleeting photographic opportunities. Hikers should always be wary of weather conditions and alerts before setting out in these areas. Wintertime weather can result in sudden snowstorms and quickly accumulating ice or snow, but also offers pristine and expansive views of heavily-flocked pines that rival many top destinations for winter photography.
Photography in the TNF offers abundant opportunities for everything from macro, to landscape, wildlife, botanical, and
even astrophotography. Those who love nocturnal photography will appreciate the clear, dark skies and low humidity that much of the TNF offers throughout most of the year. The milky way is ideal to photograph during the warm summer months in the desert. The dark, dry, clear skies showcase a phenomenal array of celestial bodies. Saguaro, rock outcroppings, and ponderosa pines all make for beautiful foreground silhouettes when photographing the night sky. For locals who live in the desert regions, nighttime photography is popular as it is considered the only bearable time to be out capturing images, given the intense daytime heat and harsh summer light. Bringing a headlamp with a red light will help you see your gear at night and set your settings properly. Savvy photographers will also look for scorpions to photograph using a black light flashlight. The flashlights can be inexpensively purchased at local hardware stores and help with locating these desert icons both for photography – and can also help ensure you are not inadvertently bringing them home in your camera gear or clothing when you finish your shoot.
Exploring the TNF for wildlife or landscape photography opportunities can be done by most individuals of varying ages and abilities. While there are over 170 marked trails totaling over 900 miles of hiking opportunities (including several accessible paths for those requiring a wheelchair), those who prefer to drive are provided with over 2590 miles (4170 km) of roads, including two national scenic byways. Paved highways and secondary roads cross the forest, but there are also abundant unpaved roads to explore. Many are well-maintained; however, there are also hundreds of miles of forest roads that are perfect for exploration in an off road vehicle. Additional treasures such as Native American ruins dating back centuries, two natural land bridges, several lakes, boating, fishing and option for camping are also abundant. Camping ranges from well-maintained sites with facilities for a fee, to free camping on dispersed, primitive sites. Maps and other information are made available from the TNF website https://www.fs.usda.gov/ main/tonto/home. Downloading maps or ordering print versions is recommended before exploring the TNF as GPS and mobile phone services are unreliable in many locations across the forest.
Though Arizona is classically known for its incredible landscape photography opportunities, the wildlife that lives here is worthy of a visit to this beautiful and diverse state. It’s what always draws me here. But once I arrive, it continues to beckon me to explore photography beyond my wildlife-oriented comfort zone and into creating other styles of images with other subjects. This is why the Tonto National Forest is so special. It offers great photo opportunities for both landscapes and wildlife, but adds extra texture each season with carpets of spring wildflowers, monsoon storms of summer, Native American ruins, temporary waterfalls, snow-flocked ponderosa pines, massive cliffs, a progression from desert to mountaintop, vivid fall color with aspens and maples, rivers, lakes, and seemingly infinite routes for exploration by hike, bike or car, and incredible vistas along the way. The Phoenix Sky Harbor International Airport is situated within an easy, 45-minute drive to the forest. Even a simple day trip to “the Tonto” provides enough diversity so that a photographer can easily make use of nearly every lens in the gear bag and come away with a rich portfolio of images—and memories—from having a very unique and beautiful experience in this amazing place.
