Overview
Kapiti Island Nature Reserve is a 19.65 km2 island measuring about 10 km in length and 2 km wide located in the Tasman Sea about 5 km off the southwestern shore of the North Island (Latitude 40 52 South, Longitude 174 54 East). It is one of New Zealand’s premier nature reserves. After more than a century of exploitation of the forests by sheep grazing, the island is now in the process of being managed for the conservation of native bird species and forests. Extensive eradication of pest mammals (pigs, rats, stoats) has taken place during the past three decades and native forest trees are now allowed to grow, and a number of significant bird species have been introduced and flourish.
Most of Kapiti Island is Crown Land managed by the Department of Conservation as a Nature Reserve. The surrounding marine waters are managed as a marine sanctuary. Birders consider a visit to Kapiti essential for relative easy viewing of some of New Zealand’s rare and endangered bird species. These include: Brown Kiwi (Apteryx mantelli), Little-spotted Kiwi (Apteryx owenii),
Takahe (Porphyrio hochstetteri) and Little Blue Penguin (Eudyptula minor)
Manaaki Barrett
Kapiti Island Nature Tours operates from the north end of the island where the extended family still owns part of the land. The family are descendants of the Māori tribes who lived, farmed and traded from the island. I work as a guide for visitors to this part of the island.
Kapiti Island is a special place for my whanau (family). My ancestors are buried here and turangiwaewae (somewhere to stand) is hugely significant for our culture and for me. My great grandmother was staunch and held onto this patch of land on the island and it is now the home for my extended family.
This island is a snapshot of New Zealand’s history. It reflects how different cultures have come together and it is a privilege for us to be able to tell those stories. In a cultural sense, the island has done a lot to keep us in touch with our culture and reflects the wider revitalization of Māori culture of New Zealand. It is easier for us with the unique connections on Kapiti Island.
On the environmental side, it is a critical lesson and example of what damage humans have caused by mucking around with ecosystems and the progress an organized recovery plan can make. New Zealand has dozens of world class examples of managing species and promoting environmental awareness. From island species recovery programmes, predator free area establishment and translocations of vulnerable populations, New Zealand and Kapiti Island are at the forefront of environmental recovery. To have the opportunity to be involved in this story is critical to my generation. We have gone from making it up as we go along to bringing species back from the brink of extinction. The island’s regeneration has happened since the end of sheep farming on the island 120 years ago. In my childhood the flat lands were all waist high grass and now it is all natural scrub and bush. Experts described likely progress but what has happened has exceeded that. Life has certainly taken advantage of the opportunity. For example, the native Kokako (Callaeas wilsoni) and Tieke (Philesturnus rufusater) have grown to really strong populations in the last 20 years.
Although changes are huge, it is still 100 years away for full regeneration and longer for original forest to be visible. There is still a lot of habitat, species to save while we do mainly focus on birds. There is an opportunity to help preserve a range of flora and fauna. We must continue to work on remaining predator free, while we allow the island to develop at its own pace. The next 100 years will be less exciting than the last 30
but it will be where we really bear the fruits of the past labours.
As a business, we have been operating for 15 years and we have been finding our stride during that time. There are sensitivities within the extended family who want to enjoy the family as their retreat. We take it as a positive opportunity to continue having conversations about our development. These discussions are always productive even when people disagree. With so many people involved, the priorities about what is best becomes clear and the lack of development actually helps protect the whanau and the island. Our cultural processes help to keep us focused and working together. The business is based on some kaupapa that help guide us. We embrace our role as kaitiakitanga (guardians), manaakitanga helps us remain hospitable and rangatiratanga (leadership) all help us build a business philosophy. It was challenging to ensure stakeholders including the whanau (family), local council and Department of Conservation were happy that the level of access would not increase the risk of fire or pest introduction. There is always a responsibility on us to maintain this. While our piece of land is private, it is unique in that it is situated on a nature reserve and the positive relationship we have with DOC ensure the island is protected. Lots of places in New Zealand are locked away but it is critical that people can access places like this so the public buys in to the conservation process. Our specialized business model ensures we can do this while continuing to develop our conservation programmes.
I am proud of what we as a whanau are doing and New Zealand in general. It is great to be able to talk to people from overseas about our story. NZ has an ambitious pest eradication programme and it is important to have some kind of vision and be proactive about it. Putting the challenge out there to all of NZ is important and we can showcase the potential success. Creating safe spaces for species on the mainland is the next big step. Making a serious dent in the rat population of Wellington, for example, means that birds like the Tieke (saddleback) move out of Zealandia (Wellington’s own predator free reserve) and into the suburbs. That is real success. There is a lot of innovation and pride in environmental protection in NZ. Small groups taking local action will make the difference rather than total reliance on the government. Other innovations in poison delivery and trapping methods will come and although controversial, the conversations need to be had. There is a sense of urgency now and that is hugely important to sustain. Kapiti Island is what the mainland can become and the opportunity to share that with the world is a privilege and honour.
Imogen Warren, Nature Photographer
Since moving to New Zealand in 2007, I have visited the island on many occasions. Returning to the island after a several years absence, I was really struck by the rate of growth of the native bush and the increase in the number of birds. It brought home to me that nature can rebound from environmental destruction if given the opportunity. For the first time last year, I stayed overnight and got a sense of what life must have been like before humans arrived at New Zealand. There is a story about early sailors having to return to their boats to sleep because of the deafening noise of the birds. I could now believe it. The call of the Little Spotted Kiwi (Apteryx owenii), native Morepork Owl (Ninox ovaeseelandiae) and Weka (Gallirallus australis) woke me regularly through the night and the dawn chorus was spectacular.
Managing the environmental protection of the island, the rights of the landowners and still promoting it to visitors must be a difficult job but I am always struck by the professional yet welcoming attitude of everyone involved with the island. Accessible by boat, your visit starts on the mainland at Paraparaumu Beach with a bag check for pests. The 15 minute trip on the boat is long enough to be exciting (the boat is pushed into the water by a large tractor as it is a sand beach) and short enough to feel very safe. On arrival you are always given information about the history and ecology of the island.
From early settler days (there are still whaling pots around the island) to the clearing of the land for farming and then the establishment of a predator free reserve, this island has seen it all. How wonderful that it is now a paradise that is open to the public.
Rangers are present on the island to help visitors and carry out their duties but you can also meet local residents who have developed the tourist programme. The sense of cultural continuance and respect is humbling and enthralling to be included in. Whether you are spending the day or staying overnight, the experience of wandering around this
magical land, staying up late to spot kiwi or talking to people who live and work here, it is something to remember.
For me, as a bird photographer, the opportunities are fantastic. At the middle point of the island, you can walk to the top of the mountain or just settle for reaching the bird feeders about a third of the way up. I sit there for hours and listen to the powerful and haunting call of the kokako, often named the grey ghost because of its elusiveness. The feeders support the hihi (Notiomystis cincta), named the stitchbird by early settlers because it’s unique call sounds like a sewing machine. At the bottom of the mountain, you can run into the takahe, the world’s largest rail, as they shuffle round the grassy area.
A short boat ride later and you arrive at the north end, which is always my favourite place (not least because it is flat!). The bird life is abundant and contrasts heavily with the quiet forests of the mainland. Curious Kaka (Nestor meridionalis, one of New Zealand’s endemic parrots) will investigate you and your bags while the Kereru (Hemiphaga novaeseelandiae, the New Zealand pigeon) graze at your feet, something they never do on the mainland. It is a bird lovers paradise with the highlight being able to see the incredibly rare, little spotted kiwi going about its business in the dark of night
Department of Conservation, Genevieve Spargo – Ranger
I had the privilege of being the DOC Island Ranger and serving 4 and a half years for the island, then another year supporting my partner Nick while he did a great job covering my maternity leave. I’m the longest serving female island ranger for Kapiti I think, and it was great to share my experience with young wahine (women) who visited and aspired to have my job one day. It was my role to care for the island and manage everyone’s competing expectations and priorities for the motu (island).
I enjoyed meeting and learning from those who had worked on the island before, especially those who were able to visit the motu during my time there. Talking with these folks and the visiting public and sharing their stories was a really fun part of the job. Many would remark on the abundance of bird life and impressive forest growth now compared to back when they first visited. In terms of a specific project though, with lots of help and iwi (Māori tribe) support, a fence was installed around key nesting seabird burrows to provide a safe place for Titi (Ardenna grisea, sooty shearwater) to nest without interference from Weka. This is very exciting, as, if nothing was done, we were looking at local extinction for these special manu (birds). In many years to come when hopefully the population stabilises it was hoped to talk with iwi about cultural harvesting.
A privileged position like the Kapiti Island ranger
understandably comes with the weight of responsibility and a fair share of challenges. All the regular challenges of juggling resources of course, but I think the most interesting challenges involved having to think on my feet to fix practical problems. After a large storm event the island’s micro hydro got absolutely demolished so Nick and I had to put it all back together – who knew you could make power with the help of a freezer basket and some cable ties! One winter when Nick was covering on Mana Island just down the road, I was at Rangatira on my own and there were huge rain falls with lots of slips across the public tracks…so it was me, a shovel and some very muddy boots for a few weeks. Not many people get time on their own, really on their own, which was a special and strange thing to experience. Lots of time to think… I started talking to the birds within days, very normal right?!
Our sendoff at the Kapiti Island Nature Tours lodge, during our last week after five and a half years. I’ll always remember that and am so thankful for the friendships we’ve made with the north end residents and lodge staff. Such a significant motu draws in a bunch of wonderful and passionate people, I miss working with these folks. Highlights in a nutshell, hearing orca breathe at night as they cruised past the boat shed, watching gannets plummet into the sea, seeing more and more rangatahi (younger generation) being part of the mahi (work) out there, learning so much from our iwi partners about kaitiakitanga (guardianship) and manaakitanga (hospitality) and understanding the value of rongoā (natural medicines) which helped to make a good kawakawa (pepper tree) brew! Family visits especially where I got to work with my mum and dad (they thought they were coming for a holiday!) and spending time with my brother and his family too. Bringing my son back to the motu at eight weeks of age was also a unique and special experience. Me, baby bath, highchair and my son in the back of the helicopter, Nick and pilot Jeremy in the front. Theo fell asleep on the way across and we were greeted by a wonderful welcoming party once we arrived!
The experiences I remember most fondly were when working with kids to talk about the importance of biosecurity on pest free islands. Explaining the layers of biosecurity (trap boxes, dog teams etc) and how by checking their gear before getting on the boat they were an important part of keeping the motu safe from unwanted guests. On a personal front a significant experience was having a miscarriage out on the island. It was quite scary with Nick and I on our own, having to rely on ourselves and the resources we had around us. It showed me we could get through anything and was a huge learning experience for me. The motu played a significant role in my healing from that. I’ve chosen to be open about it because there are many mothers who have lost pregnancies and are coping in isolation, and it’s tough, I feel for them. We’ve had many interesting times on Kapiti, whale strandings, mystery lights in the sky, emergency boat and jet ski landings, a lightning strike fire, huge storms resulting in windfalls and flooding and roofs lifting, earthquakes, injured public visitors we’ve had to carry to the boat, lost public visitors, helicopter medical evacuations, the list goes on! Every single day is different for an island ranger, you start with a plan and get ready to change it, and it’s wonderful!
The Kapiti predator free story is a wonderful example of New Zealander ingenuity and the framework is now exported all over the world during other eradications which is something we should be really proud of. The north end residents have an incredible array of stories from their experiences of living on the motu during the possum and rodent eradications. Now when there’s a rustle in the ceiling it’s quite likely geckos thankfully!
Before we pat ourselves on the back too much though, biosecurity requires vigilance and we’re constantly reminded that we can’t let our guard down or get complacent, particularly these days with the threat of Argentine ants and microscopic diseases that can kill the wildlife and even attack our native plants.
As island ranger my role was primarily to care for the island. At times that meant speaking up for the island and being in the middle of people’s differing priorities or expectations for the place. This meant being unpopular at times but that’s all part of it and broad shoulders help. Hearing concerns and finding the common thread to what people were wanting to achieve usually found us a way to muddle through. This part of the role was really satisfying.
I’m really thankful for my time on Kapiti, as it taught me a great deal about myself and people and it was wonderful for us to have the last portion out there with my little son. I’m also thankful for friends and family who encouraged and helped us during our time out there and continue to be of great support as we live and work on Mana Island.
