Often, we believe that “A desert is a place without expectation”. When we are not expecting anything specific and be happy to experience whatever surprise may be found in there, we actually step closer to an overwhelming treasure that remains deep-rooted in our hearts for years. The Great Indian Desert (Thar) in the Western part of the Indian Subcontinent, spreading for around 200000 Sq. Kilometers is a hot subtropical desert where life itself seems to be like a mirage. At the heart of this barrenness, there is a treasureland that defines the desert ecology at the highest level. Spread for an area of around 3162 sq. kilometers this area is made of craggy rocks and compact salt lake bottoms. 20% of this entire area is made of sand dunes and in some intermediate areas, there are patches of grass and thorny bushes. Established in 1981 Desert National Park thus stands to be one of the largest and the most unique of all national parks in the entire country. This place has its special appeal to me because I have always loved a desert and believe that a desert always tells its own rustic story, so distinct from other places, and all you have to do is be engulfed in that story with all eyes and ears, silently.
Just around 40 kilometers away from Jaisalmer, the Desert National Park has its own significance in many ways. First of all, it is the only ecosystem of its kind in the entire Indian landscape. As a result, the place is host to some unique endemic species. Secondly, it has a high-value conservation aspect as there are certain endangered species for which DNP is one of the last few homes left on this globe. The weather of the area is typically the trademark hot subtropical desert weather; very hot when the sun is at the top and much cooler during the evening. The temperature variation in summer and winter is also extreme. The sandy and stony landscape also keep challenging the existing biodiversity every day in its fight for survival. The biggest disadvantage is the scarcity of water in the entire region. The floral diversity of the region is mostly consisting of herbaceous or stunted scrub; drought-resistant trees. Prosopis cineraria trees are found throughout this landscape. With less than 100mm rainfall every year, the hot, arid desert has the Aravalli hills at its Easternmost side, the Western part is guarded by the fertile plains of Indus, the Greater Rann of Kutch at the South, and the sub-Himalayan plains at the north.
If “barren” is one word for this place, then “beauty” stands strong to justly glorify the grandeur. The crimson glow of the sun starts painting the canvas of the DNP every morning. It is an incredible experience when the entire stretch of sand dunes turns golden, and the cool breeze of the morning welcomes you to the wonders waiting in the way. The song of the small birds like Larks begins. Gradually the darkness fades away to introduce you to a never-ending stretch of sands and the faraway horizon where sometimes your heartbeat can break the silence. The sudden harsh and loud call of the National Bird from far away can easily send chills through your spine. Gradually with the rise in temperature, all the creatures begin their venture for the day and the time begins for the birds of prey to take a leap from their nests to fly high in search of food. This place is an absolute paradise for raptors. Red-necked Falcon, Lagar Falcon, Tawny Eagle, Eastern Imperial Eagle, Booted Eagle, Steppe Eagle, Indian Spotted Eagle, Greater Spotted Eagle, Short-toed Snake Eagle, varieties of Harriers, Buzzards and Kites are found roaming all around in the hot daytime. They mainly prey on smaller birds like Doves, Rollers, Pipits, Larks, and so on. Their prey base also includes reptiles. The spiny-tailed lizard is an iconic reptile species of this area which has a high rate of poaching threat as the oil from its fat mainly from the tail (according to the locals) helps in producing aspirin and aphrodisiac. This is also among one of the most favourite food of the raptors. The Desert Monitor Lizard is another attractive species that is found only in this part of India. Apart from these, three of the “big four” snakes of India; the Common Krait, the Spectacled Cobra, and the Saw-scaled Viper are also residents in this place. Among the mammals, Bengal Fox, Desert Fox, Desert Cat, Indian Gazelle, Blackbuck, Wolves are the major species which are found here. Thus, the Desert National Park is home to uncountable species of different taxa of which some are facing existential threats and enlisted in the threatened categories of the IUCN Red List.
From the conservation angle, the Desert National Park is one of the most sensitive areas all over the world. Six species of vultures out of the nine found in India have prominent distribution in the area which includes Critically Endangered White-rumped Vulture, Indian Vulture, Red-headed Vulture, and the Near Threatened Cinereous Vulture. Egyptian Vultures and Griffon Vultures which are fortunately still not enlisted in such categories are also residents here. There are also records of Himalayan Griffons visiting this place in winter. Therefore, this place falls both in the breeding range and wintering range of several vulture species which are exposed to the threat of extinction very prominently. So, when the entire nation is putting its e !orts to save the vultures, this place has its own importance as a preferred refuge of the species.
However, the importance of the Desert National Park from a conservation angle on the pan Indian landscape is at the highest level because it is home to the last remaining batch of Great Indian Bustards in the entire world. Around only 250 mature individuals of the species are now roaming in the wild and the scientists are working their hearts out to ensure the sustainability of the species. This place is very much suitable for the bustards. The Wildlife Institute of India is presently pursuing the revival initiative of GIB in the Breeding Centre right at the heart of DNP. We hope this unique landscape will be able to sing the success story of saving GIB in the near future.
The Great Indian Desert holds the record of the most densely populated desert in the world with 83 people per square kilometer. However, the population density in DNP is on the much lower side with 5-7 persons per square kilometer. There are 73 villages and some other settlements inside the Desert National Park. The inhabitants here have been sharing a unique confluence of several religions and they rarely get time to engage in communal conflicts after their day-to-day struggle to overcome the hardships of living in a desert. The nomads of the region are called ‘Banjaras’ who travel a lot with their cattle to earn their bread. The biggest challenge to the locals is finding potable water. These people were very much into hunting to procure food and this practice continued for centuries. The terrifying statistics of the population decline of the Great Indian Bustard are also a result of this practice. These people are very sensitive regarding their age-old traditions and their existential threats have turned them somewhat very aggressive. Living in close proximity to one of the most sensitive international borders has also contributed to their struggle of living a peaceful life. It is very tough to convince them into something which is beyond their knowledge and therefore creating awareness among them against poaching is always a tough nut to crack. With the help of local authorities, the conservationists are putting everything into convincing them to stop poaching but for the people who don’t know how they will survive the next day, conservation of wild animals is of little value. Here lies the greatest challenge to the people involved in saving the ecosystem of DNP. But with the persistent e !ort, they are achieving small but significant success in this area and with these small successes, the Desert National Park is one of the potential places which are being considered for the reintroduction of Cheetahs in India.
It is often said “a rose in a desert can only survive on its strength, not its beauty.” But that strength to defy all odds can never outclass the beauty of the rose. That’s where the Desert National Park is a mysterious land where on one hand we see nothing but void, hardships, and lifelessness and on the other hand, we see some iconic creatures of Mother Nature flourish. Often the lack of water and the cruel sand dunes brings sad consequences to both humans and wildlife. Still, the desire to survive, overcoming the vicissitudes of the desert life is a burning example of never giving up. In the evening when the tired sun decides to set, giving up his day-long resilience, the entire desert replenishes to fight another day. The sand dunes get enveloped in a golden aura during dawn and dusk showcasing the magnificence of the landscape. “Night comes to the desert all at once as if someone turned o ! the lights” and the morning awaits us with a promise of a new beginning where the beauty hidden in the treasure-land will again win over the bareness.
